This site shows some examples of my stereo photography. The images were taken with a Fuji Film Real 3D W1 stereoscopic camera. I updated to the W3 model in the Summer of 2013 - so newer photos are taken with that camera.
You will need a hand-held stereoscopic viewer - something along these lines. You then have to align yourself and the viewer with the screen to see the 3D effect.
The nature of the viewers will mean that you will see pixelation on most screens. My target viewing platform for these is an iPad with retina display (this would be iPad version 3 and 4 - but not the iPad mini), used in Landscape orientation. With this kind of display, even at close range, pixels are quite hard to discern. I get good results viewing these pages on my ageing 15" MacBook Pro. However, my desktop display is a problem - I am hoping I will find a way to keep the images to a viewable size on desktop machines in the future (it is possible that the viewer I am using is the blame here). Right now, though, laptops and tablets are likely your best bet. This is simply because of the varying sizes in displays. Also, at time of writing, you cannot specify an image in real world dimensions (eg centimetres or inches) and get the image consistently displayed at the required size by browsers.
YMMV (as always).
If you have an iPad, you can tilt it to the left and right to change images (iPad 1 does not support this feature) - handy if you are using an OWL viewer. It is also recommended to hold the iPad in landscape orientation as the images were designed to be displayed at a certain size to be viewed properly.
iPad users can also swipe left and right to change the cards on the screen, instead of tapping buttons.
The revised version of my viwer also allows “cross eye” viewing. Click the icon, and the left/riught images will swap over. Move from slide to slide using the arrow keys on your keyboard. I have disabled the animation in this mode as it’s easy to lose eye focus when they move around.